Flavia track rod ends - OE right, new left.  £35 a pair, + p&p, to Consortium members.  Non-members must add 10% to these prices.  Cheques in advance (jn £ sterling), payable to "The Flavia and 2000 Consortium Ltd."  , and must include p&p for 1000 grammes.  Only sold in pairs.  [will fit S1 Fulvia]

2000 track rod ends - OE right, new left.  £30 a pair, +p&p, to Consortium members.  Non-members must add 10% to these prices.  Cheques in advance (in £ sterling), payable to "The Flavia and 2000 Consortium Ltd.", and must include p&p for 1000 grammes.  Only sold in pairs.  [will fit S2 and 3 Fulvia]

Notes on fitting Flavia track rod ends.

1)  Raise the front end of the car.  Level ground, handbrake on, rear wheels chocked.  Remove front wheels.  Support well - axle stands under subframe at two points on each side.
2)  Mark each outer track rod so as to be sure which is which.  Remove cotter pins, undo each castellated nut a few turns, then break taper joints with a splitter. There is room for a lever type splitter to work at both ends.  If you intend to renew the centre tie-rod at the same time, then this will mean using the splitter inboard through the space behind the engine, feeding your socket extension down past the battery and brake master cylinder.
3)  Record the length of each outer track rod.  One method is to nail a block at one end of the a length of timber, butt one track rod end against it, then use another block against the other TRE to help mark a pencil line on the wood with a carpenter's square.  Nail another block of wood to the second line.  Do this for both track rods.  The theory says these measurements should be the same, but they might not be.  
4)  Dismantle each track rod, and clean up.  Reassemble using the new TREs.  As the new units are not dimensionally identical to the OE TREs, and as you will need to have the front wheel tracking checked as the very next job, it will be acceptable in the interim to set the lengths again to those measured, or to an average of the two measurements.
5)  Before final refitting, it is as well to be sure that: a) the track rod ends will rotate freely in the track rod [this will be appreciated by the chap checking the front wheel alignment]; b) the holes provided for the new (always!) cotter pins are large enough [drill out if not], and c) the castellated nuts will screw onto the taper pins easily.
6)  Using castellated nuts has the advantage that you do not have to find a way of preventing the taper pins from rotating as you screw them on.  The nyloc nuts provided will find another use elsewhere.  This is a matter of personal choice - you can use the nylocs if preferred.  It will be necessary to use a suitable washer  under the outboard castellated nut - all threaded lengths on these new TREs are generous.  
7)  Be sure to allow the TREs to align with the arms on the steering and the wheel hubs: these are not on parallel axes (included angle approx. 25 degrees).  Nip up the back nuts so that the taper clamps on the centre rod are locating the adjusting thread tightly.  You may wish to leave the locking washers unbent at this time, pending final wheel alignment.  It is actually quite awkward to ensure that the included angle remains at approx. 25 degrees when carrying out final tightening after front wheel alignment.  There is some merit in being prepared to remove the track rods again after alignment,  checking the angle, then finally tightening the back nuts and bending the locking tabs on the bench.
8)  Flavia TREs can be topped up with grease if this is thought necessary.  The steering will feel tight initially, but will free up with use.