-
Rust
proofing: these two guides (links are on the right)
are taken from the Tectyl product range. This unfortunately
also means they are in Swedish, but the diagrams are self
explanatory...
-
Autojumble
Parts: a few possible alternative parts which may
be found (although this is becoming more and more unlikely) at
Classic Car show autojumble areas.
-
Engine Servicing
Information: these vehicles can be used in modern
traffic without too many problems, but they do require regular
attention. Modern synthetic and semi-synthetic engine oils
should be avoided in favour of e.g. Duckhams Q20/50 Classic, Esso Extra
20/50 or something similar (*). Brake fluids are glycol-based
DOT4 spec. (see item on silicone-based fluids below). There
are 11 greasing points on the Flavia front suspension and steering, 4
on the 2000 front suspension, + 1 on the remote
gearshift. A good quality lithium or molybdenum
grease will do fine; just keep the greasing schedule regular. The Flavia non-power steering box may well leak oil -
it is possible to fit a greasing nipple to the filler plug, and then
use an appropriate (self-levelling) grease instead. There
should be some anti-freeze or summer coolant mixture (e.g. Comma
"Coldstream") in the cooling system at all times. Powered
steering fluid (on the 2000) is not critical, but should be that type
specified for older cars (e.g. Ford Hydraulic Fluid F-AT/PS; part #
99SX 19547 AA). Spark plugs should be modern N7Y equivalents,
and can be the "fit and forget" R56 type, if necessary, and if the
carburetter/injection system is in good shape. Petrol is not
too critical either - do use an octane additive if this is favoured,
but there are many examples of both Flavia and 2000 running quite
happily on 95 octane unleaded - modern classic car use is not as
intense as when these cars were new, and aluminium heads have alloy
steel valve seat inserts anyway. Don't forget tappet
clearances. These should not require looking at very often,
but do take the trouble to get them right, by checking over several (clockwise)
revolutions. The "Rule of 9" doesn't work, by the
way. Clearances should be (cold): (Flavia carb.) inlet 0.20
mm, exhaust 0.30 mm., (Flavia inj.) inlet 0.15 mm., exhaust 0.25 mm.,
(2000 all) inlet 0.15 mm; exhaust 0.20 mm. The firing order
is 1-3-2-4. The CB points should be set (all) to 0.45±0.03 mm., ignition timing
is (Flavia) 2 to 3° BTDC, (2000) 0 to 2° on carburetted
cars, 0 to 2° BTDC on Flavia KF injection cars,
10±1° BTDC on the (2000) Bosch injected cars.
See also the links on the right.
- (*) Filling the engine with fresh oil.
This can take some time. It is not possible to put a funnel into
the filler neck and up-end the oil can, which will result in oil all
over the engine and your driveway below. Tip steadily and very
slowly, with pauses to allow the filler neck to drain down. If
changing the filter at the same time: the 2000 engine will be OK to
prime a new filter (can use the Rover 2000/Jensen Interceptor 3/SP -
Fram 2821A - if the OE Fispa FOE 025 is not available). The
Flavia will benefit if you partially fill the filter housing (filter
element is as for the Jaguar XK120) before replacing the filter housing
top. This lessens the worrying bearing noises on the first
restart. Do not rev the engine until the oil pressure gauge (see
12 &13 below) shows a significant reading.
-
Silicone
Brake Fluids: this is a copy of a note from
Lockheed detailing problems that may well be experienced if this type
of product is used. Consortium members have
experienced odd braking behaviour in the past with silicone based
fluids: the text is published for information. Access via the
link on the right of this page.
-
Battery
types: Flavia - type 063; 2000 - type 077.
-
De
Carbon shock absorbers: for Flavia -
(both ends) and 2000 (rear only) can be obtained via: Scorpion Racing,
Unit D, The Coppetts Centre, North Circular Road, London N12
0SH. Telephone 020 8211 4888. These were fitted as
original equipment. References: V37 1111 23 (front); V37 1112
23 (rear). Please note
that de Carbon are rumoured not to be making any more of these units,
as of 12/2007.
-
Bosch D
Jetronic fuel injection: the link on the right (The
ECU) links to a very technical article, which tells you all you might
ever need to know...
-
Kugelfischer
Injection petrol pump: The original
Schäfer PLF-5A pump is becoming difficult to source, if the
original is not repairable. The American fuel pump
manufacturer Weldon make the JC8150 pump, rated at 30-50 gal/hr., with
a pressure range of 5-25 psi. http://www.weldonpumps.com/jc.htm
This should be obtainable from Interex Motorsport Products (01449 721700).
-
Wheel
bearings: the OE bearing used by Lancia was
designed for and exclusively made by FAG and SKF for the Fulvia and
Flavia vehicles. Although it still might just be possible to
find some old stock in a small town bearing stockist, this is more and
more unlikely as time passes. The Dutch Lancia Club have
developed a replacement equivalent - using an FAG 3210B.2RSR bearing
and an adaptor kit. Details from: http://www.viva-lancia.com.
Members of the Consortium may obtain both bearing and kit from their
usual contact, as always if stock permitting. This bearing
and adaptor kit has been trialled by the Consortium, and works just
fine.
-
All
Lancia technical literature relating to Flavia 815,
819, 820, + 2000 820 vehicles has been gathered by the Dutch Lancia
Club onto a series of CD-ROMs. Details are available on the
same website as for item 9 above. All the documents are filed
in Adobe Acrobat format, and each CD-ROM includes an Acrobat reader
software download, just in case this software isn't on your PC or
laptop.
-
Starting from
cold. Please be advised:
Lancia & C recognised that the original (removable element) oil
filter and cooler arrangement on the Flavia did not always prime as
fast as was needed from a cold start (or when hot on a very hot day)
and published technical circular DICO/SAT-6013/73-RL/cm which said as
much. It is good practice to allow the starter motor to spin
the
engine for a good 5 seconds before applying choke at a cold start, and
resisting the temptation to kick the accelerator to "catch" the engine
too soon at a hot start. The cartridge filter arrangement on
Flavia 2000 and 2000 vehicles has no such published limitation.
-
Low tick-over oil
pressure. - or indeed low oil pressure generally
should be confirmed with a proper direct- reading gauge. The
pressure sensor on the oil filter pedestal isn't always accurate (after
30+ years use!) and it may be giving the wrong idea
entirely. Worn bearings will reveal themselves by noise in
the usual way...
-
Changing from 1st
to 2nd gear with a stone-cold box can be impossible -
particularly the 5 speed boxes - until the oil has warmed and
circulated a bit. Do not force the gear in.
Either start in 2nd gear, if the lie of the land is downhill, or rev it
a little more and change direct from 1st to 3rd. Previous
owners may not have been too sympathetic, in which case the synchromesh
will not work properly now, and dropping from 2nd to 1st, even double
de-clutching with a warm box, will be noisy. The 1st to 2nd
change problem usually goes away after a mile or two. See note 16 below regarding suitable oils. A
high engagement point at the clutch pedal is normal.
-
Using the jack.
Unless you have had the cills repaired, and know for
absolutely certain that the car body structure is totally
sound in this area, do not jack (or let anyone
else) under the corners of the cills. For the same reasons, do
not let a garage use a 4 point vehicle hoist on the
car. These vehicles are heavy for their size , and were not
designed for continuous suspension at the corners of the cills, even if
totally sound. Each front wheel may be raised by using the
scissor jack supplied under the knuckle at the outer end of the lower
wishbone - just inboard of the swivel joint. Tyre centres
will lift the front with a trolley jack under the centre cross member,
which is beneath the bell housing. This is OK, but will
eventually bend the lower surface of the cross member somewhat. The
rear wheels can be raised under each end of the axle, or in the centre
of the axle to get both rear wheels in the air at once.
Remember - Safety Assessment At All Times.
In gear, handbrake on, level ground, chocked
wheels.
-
Wheel alignment.
ALL.
Front: 1 to 2 mm. toe-out, measured on the rims
with the car under static load. Rear: 2 to 3.5 mm. toe-in,
measured under the same conditions; which must have been somehow set at
the rear axle by the factory, as there is no apparent way to carry out
further adjustment!
- Gearbox. ALL. If you check
in the owner's handbook, then you will see that Lancia & C
specified oils such as Esso GX90 and Mobilube HD90. These are
your good old-fashioned heavy 90 grade hypoid oils, not these thin
75/90 oils that are used today. Do not use a synthetic gear oil, but
obtain a similar EP90S oil from a classic car oil specialist such as
Morris's of Shrewsbury, or Millers, for example. Synthetic oils
will cause damage.
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